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Three Steps To Heaven – Kanchanaburi’s Erawan Waterfall
I am going to blow this post out of the water straight from the start. Wonderful Wi and I got to three steps from heaven then called it a day. The Erawan Waterfall in Kanchanaburi has seven tiers but unlike Sir Ranulph Fiennes who failed in his first two attempts to climb Mount Everest due to a heart attack on his first expedition, and exhaustion forcing him to quit on the second before his successful third climb, our failure was more for reasons of supply. Smoke and chillies to be precise. My cigarettes were running low and the young one needed her daily dose of som tum, so having reached the fourth tier we headed back to base camp satisfied we had enjoyed one of the more picturesque places we were ever likely to see on this earth.
The Erawan National Park comprises 550 sq. km. and I had 10 cigarettes to cover it. It was going to be a tough day and the blazing hot sun kind of winked to force its way into the equation. The waterfall at the national park is the biggest draw for tourists both foreign and Thai alike. From the bottom to the seventh level is a total of 1500 metres and our tour guide who was taking us to level one set off at a brisk pace which left us lagging a fair way behind. If I’d had a decent cigarette lighter we might of kept up.
Since becoming Thailand’s 12th national park 34 years ago Erawan Waterfall has seen a well beaten path laid down by the many tourists who have visited. A trail leads from the first tier up to the penultimate sixth level but from there a rock climb is involved to reach the precipice. The rock formation on the uppermost tier resembles a figure from Hindu mythology and gives the waterfall its name. The three headed Erawan Elephant greets those who make it.
Our tour guide warned us about the greeting we might receive on the second level and it wasn’t long before a sign reminded us so. ‘Beware Fierce Monkeys’ and sure enough they dropped down from the trees and stood before us.
In a scene that would no doubt have been left discarded on the floor of the Planet of the Apes movie editing room, Wilai kept the beasts at bay with very small stones thrown with an awkard technique that only girls seem to use. Surely if they really were that fierce they would have caught the stones and thrown them back. Slowly but surely I made my move.
I approached one of the savage primates and clicking away with my camera cautiously narrowed the gap between the two of us. Wilai watched my back armed with more small stones and a throwing action similar to a ladyboy chucking confetti at a high society wedding. The white – handed gibbon (photo right) sat in the tree was a real cool dude. I think the park warden had been dipping his bananas in Valium and Prozac but his mates were well and truly ’stoned,’ by a ladyboy in a sweet country girl’s clothes.
We saw many different species of bird but failed to spot any of the other animals and reptiles the national park has in abundance, although our trek only covered a relatively small area. Elephants, tigers, squirrels, the dreaded king cobra and banded krait all inhabit the park’s forestry and surround.
The forest wrapped itself around each of the four steps of the waterfall that we were fortunate enough to breathe, like an oyster’s shell protecting its valuable pearl (nicely put HD). The view on each level was so serene I felt compelled to place each stubbed out cigarette butt back into my near empty packet (spoilt it a bit there HD). I have visited national parks in Thailand before and marveled at each and every one but this was the most striking and memorable I had ever seen.
We were both stunned by the waters clear crystal blue colour and taken aback by the busy tourist flow yet quiet serenity, the peacefulness that let you share your moment together. Young Wilai admired the water and the fish that swam in their perfect world and I constantly fought the urge to strip to the waist and wade into the pure water spring shouting till my lungs were exhausted ‘ Has anyone got a spare cigarette because I’m down to my last two.’ I stopped short, fearing my echo would turn the Blue Lagoon a nicotine tainted brown.
Our tour to the Erawan Waterfall was 750 baht per person and was a double package with an added bonus. The tour included a ride on Thailand’s famous Death Railway but en route our tour guide announced that four of the minibus passengers were booked for an hours ride at the Wang Pho Elephant Camp and afterwards bathing with the magnificent mammals. Wang Pho also turned out to be our boarding station for the Thai – Burma Death Railway. I was kindly invited to take photographs of the elephants bathing in the River Kwai Noi and I will post on the wonderful experience at a later date.
I’ll tell you the thing I most liked about the Erawan Waterfall was that we stopped short at three steps to heaven. Stopping short gives us a very good reason to go back.
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10 Responses to “Three Steps To Heaven – Kanchanaburi’s Erawan Waterfall”
Absolutely gorgeous photos Martyn! Looks like you put the camera to tremendous good use.
The waterfall looks every bit heaven and someplace I could relax for a very long time.
Talen´s last blog ..Thailand’s New Nursing Home for Elephants
Talen I know you are a very keen photographer but I have never really had any great interest before until last year when I started to see all the great photos that you and some of the other bloggers take. I am never going to be dead keen but I do have much more of an interest now. My camera is a Samsung PL 50 and is nothing fancy but it takes pictures that are acceptable for me. If I click 100 shots then 90 odd of them come out clear and not fuzzy whereas the ratio was near opposite with my previous one. The camera was reduced from 300 dollars down to about 135 so I thought I’d give it a go. The photos in this post are mainly cropped as I had to take tourists and trees out of some of the shots. I really should take a photography course.
Martyn,
I’m still learning and could definitely use some courses…night time shots are still awful for me. I use a Sony DSC-H7 & a Sony A-200…nothing special.
I shoot a lot and wind up getting at least a few good shots.
Talen´s last blog ..Thailand’s New Nursing Home for Elephants
Martyn, great post and superb pictures. This brought back some memories since back in 2005 I swam in the pool in the top picture.
An interesting aside is that the fish in the pool nibble your feet-free pedicure-and also any other bits of exposed dead skin!
Thanks for reminding me that I must go back although despite my 20 a day I did make it to the top last time!!
Mike´s last blog ..Buddhist Funeral Rites and Ceremony-Cremation
Martyn , sooo glad you got to go and enjoy the falls they are great , but like you #3 was as far as I go , friends and relatives we have took there went on up to the 7th( i waited at the coffee shop ) (the walk to the first falls wore me out ha ha ), and enjoyed it ,they were really tired when they came back , maybe one of these days I’ll give it a go . we have a small falls right up from Whang Pho called Sai Yok Noi water falls and it’s right off the road no walking or hiking , my kind of thing ha ha , great pics and hope to see you if you come back for another go at the top . Malcolm
malcolm´s last blog ..FINGER LICKING GOOD
Talen at the end of the day as far as blogging goes a point and click type shot is sufficient for me. I am now taking a similar stance to you and take lots of shots and delete those I don’t like. On my last trip I got a few strange looks for taking pictures of very ordinary things.
Mike 20 cigarettes is more than enough to reach the summit and back. I must admit I didn’t fancy the fish nibbling bit as I was more interested in looking around and taking some pics. The waterfall was one of the highlights of our holiday and we both agreed that we are definitely going back.
Malcolm what a beautiful province you live in. From the base to the 4th tier is quite a long walk and the heat makes it even harder. I read about the Sai Yok Noi Waterfalls but we had no spare time at all to visit there and a few other places that were advertised at the tour shops. Hopefully next time we will and there will without doubt be another trip to your province. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Kanchanaburi.
‘Beware Fierce Monkeys’
Ughhh… Monkeys. Nasty creatures.
‘Wilai kept the beasts at bay with very small stones’
Good idea. I’ll be sure to grab stones the next time I am around monkeys.
On a recent trip with friends, we stopped by a restaurant for lunch. Piling out of the car, we came face to face with monkeys everywhere. No thanks. Back into the car we went.
But next time I’ll dip into the parking lot for a bucket of stones and join in.
Catherine´s last blog ..Thai 101 Learners Series: Bumper-to-bumper Language Lessons
Catherine I’m very much the same when it comes to monkeys. The words pest and sharp teeth always spring to mind. In fact I much prefer the larger chimpanzee type rather than the gibbons that were about at the waterfall. The small stones seemed to work a treat.
we’ve been to Erawan, but we didn’t know about the waterfall! maybe we’ll come back and see it sometime. thanks for the great photo-essay.
MJ Klein´s last blog ..Class Dismissed!
MJ – The Erawan Waterfall is possibly the most beautiful sight I have ever seen in Thailand and I don’t say that lightly. Kanchanaburi as a whole was awesome and our four nights there wasn’t enough, we’re definitely going back.
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